quinta-feira, 26 de fevereiro de 2009

He lives... HE LIVES!!!!

Well, I have set a record. Over two months without writing anything in my blog! Shame shame shame. A number of important events have transpired since December 20th, and I'll try to squeeze them all into this blog post. But I'm not making any promises! And feel free to read it in installments. My internet attention span doesn't usually last more than 6 minutes, so if you're like me, you may want to break the tedious work of reading my blog into healthy chunks. I'll start with a brief table of contents:

Chapter 1: Christmas!
Chapter 2: New Year's!
Chapter 3: A couple random things between Chapters 2 & 4!
Chapter 4: THE BIG TRIP TO THE NORTHEAST!
Chapter 5: My Birthday! (what is with all these exclamation marks?)
Chapter 6: Carnaval!
Chapter 7: Whatever else comes to mind while I'm writing!

I promise this isn't going to be a book, I just like the idea of having chapters. Plus it makes it easier to remember where you left off if you get bored and decide to go stare at the wall for a while before continuing...

Chapter 1: Christmas

The holiday that trumped all other festivities in December was, of course, Christmas. Brazilian families get together to have a big dinner on Christmas Eve and then exchange gifts at midnight, so at about 9 o'clock in the evening, we all gathered in a banquet room at my cousin's apartment building for the family Christmas party. Everyone brought a plate of food and we had a great time just hanging out, chowing down, and passing around baby Henry. At midnight, we exchanged presents, which was a uniquely Brazilian experience. I'm not sure if this applies to every family in the US, but when we exchange presents on Christmas day, we draw it out, focus on each person as they open another one of their presents, and then "ooh" and "ahh" over it as they say thank you to whomever gave it to them. It takes a long time, but it's really fun to see what everyone got for Christmas.

It was pretty different for me this year. Within a few minutes of announcing that it was time to open presents, there was wrapping paper everywhere and there were no more gifts under the tree. It was pretty much a free for all, but not in a get-me-my-presents-now kind of way. More of a walking-around-handing-people-presents-and-opening-your-own-at-the-same-time kind of way. There was lots of kissing and hugging and smiling during the whole event (which only lasted about ten minutes). My favorite gift I received was definitely the Corinthians futebol jersey with Ronaldo's name and number on the back. So cool! My cousin gave it to me, and just by coincidence his mom got him the exact same thing, so now we have matching jerseys! After presents, we all held hands in a circle and said a prayer, which reminded me a lot of an American Thanksgiving. After the prayer, we spent about twenty minutes walking around kissing and hugging each other and saying Merry Christmas before we brought out dessert. The whole night was really different than the Christmas experience I'm used to, but it was so special and everyone took a lot of care to make me feel welcome. I talked with my American family through Skype when we got home around 2:30 in the morning, and it was so great to talk to everyone together! It was then that Sandra brought out a package that had come in the mail from my family, but she had wrapped and put under the Christmas tree without telling me. It was like Christmas all over again! It was great talking to my American family and digging through their box of gifts, and I didn't feel sad at all to be away from them. It was just a great joy to talk with them.


The food!
My mom Sandra in the back and in the front from left to right is Aunt Helena, my cousin Joyce, Joyce's mom Íris, and Joyce's older sister and mother of Henry, Thaís. Henry is the little ball of baby in the front. Did that all make sense?
Juca and Diego at the secret santa gift exchange

Chapter 2: New Year's!

The following Tuesday, I headed to Santos to spend New Year's with my friends there, lying on the beach, playing in the ocean, and hanging out in the city. I went with Dora and a member of her family (an aunt...? It was all a little unclear) and we stayed in a tiny little hotel near the beach. We had muggy 90º weather the whole time and I got sunburned beyond belief on my first day there, but it was all worth hanging out at the beach for the week (especially when I imagined all my friends stuck in the snow back home...) and going out everyday with my exchange student friends.

At about 10:00 PM on New Year's Eve, they blocked the city's main street that runs parallel to the beach to all car traffic. There were people everywhere! And as a tradition, everyone was dressed in brand new white clothes. All the parties were at the beach in various barracas, closed off and partially-covered areas with buffets and bars and lots of people. My friend John's parents invited me into theirs and I got to sit on the beach and enjoy the firework show at midnight. After that we all ran into the water and jumped 7 waves, making a wish for each one, for good luck for the new year. We also ate seven grapes, which must be good luck too... There were also people throwing roses into the ocean and lighting seven candles and sticking them in the sand. All in all, a really beautiful night. Lots of Brazilians apologize for what they think are outdated superstitions, but I'm with the wave jumpers-- I just think it's a cool tradition! Later, I met up with the rest of my friends (all the exchanged students were in Santos for New Year's) and we had a huge party until about 6:00 AM, when Amy, Brittnie, and I celebrated midnight all over again in honor of the six hour time difference between Brazil and the Pacific Northwest.

A cloudy, warm, and crowded day at the beach!

Roses in the tide

7 candles for good fortune

Chapter 3: A couple random things...

On the morning I was leaving Santos, my glasses broke in my hand. I was just doing that nerdy thing where I wipe my glasses on my shirt to get off the dirty stuff and crack! The frame broke above the left lens. Luckily both the lenses were still in good shape, so I was able to get them fitted into another good frame for relatively cheap, but I'm still a little bummed about my loss. I loved those glasses! These new ones are pretty cool though, so I'll live. Plus sudden changes in appearance are rather exciting, aren't they? I think so.

Around the time my glasses were getting repaired, a new visitor started frequenting our block. There are always lots of stray dogs wandering around Santo André, but this black little Dachshund didn't seem to be one of them. She crossed the street at all the wrong times and circled by our house half a dozen times a day. She was definitely lost. After a couple of days, my grandma said something about how she looked really similar to a dog she had given away about 3 years ago when she moved in with Sandra. But the dog was too scared to get close enough for us to tell, so we didn't know for sure. After about a week though, Sandra was finally able to lure her into the yard. After seeing the scars on her belly from a surgery she had years ago, Nena (my grandma) confirmed that it was Duca. Apparently her old owner had gotten tired of having a dog and had committed the all too common act of simply chucking her out onto the street. Sad. Lucky she ended up coming back to us! Nena tried to get in touch with the guy that she gave her to three years ago, but she couldn't remember his name and his phone number was long gone. So... now we have another dog! Snoopy, the little white poodle, now has an old dame of a wiener dog as his master. The two get along great, but we had to buy snoopy a new little dog house because Duca invaded his. So yeah. Now it's Duca and Snoopy. Cool!

Before the big trip, we were starting to make plans for me to move families when I got back. My whole family was really bummed out about it, and so was I. What would have been my new family were complete strangers to me, and I know they really wanted to keep Luís in their house, so I was afraid I would be less than welcome. Plus, I like it here! My mom and grandma are pretty chill, the rest of my family is a blast, and I'm already meeting new people all the time. Apparently we weren't the only ones feeling this way, so before I left on the trip, my mom told me she would see what she could do. My philosophy was: If I have to move, too bad. But it'll work out great and I'll have a wonderful time. If I don't have to move, even better. So, I started the trip with some uncertainty, hoping that I could just keep my place in Daniel's family after I returned from my travels!

My wonderful family!

Chapter 4: THE BIG TRIP TO THE NORTHEAST!

Baahhhh! It was finally time! January 10th was the big day of departure from São Paulo with 38 other exchange students. The plan was to travel up the coast to see the paradises of Brazil, then head for the capital for a few days before our return on February 9th. A whole month! It's a really difficult task to describe the all around awesomeness of the Big Trip (I'm just going to call it the Grande Viagem, it sounds too lame in English...), so I'll tell you the basic itinerary and then post some pictures. If you want more specific details (Mr. Verbano... just kidding. I don't think he's reading this blog. Or are you, you sly dog??), leave me a comment and ask me! The students also kept a collective blog that has lots of pictures and says a lot more about each city. It's worth a look!

Soooo it was all by bus, which got very tiresome, but was comfortable and definitely worth saving a couple hundred dollars on plane tickets. The first stop was Rio de Janeiro. Yeah, I know! Rio! So awesome. Indescribable. We stayed at a hotel on Copacabana Beach, climbed Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar, again way better in Portuguese), hiked around in the forest, visited Christ the Redeemer, and didn't miss the chance to spend a day at Ipanema Beach. Don't even think about asking me if I saw the girl from... there. I'm tired of that joke. I was before I even went there. Sorry for the crankiness. It was a great stay! We took samba lessons one night, which was great fun and a tough workout in a veryyy hot dance studio. Yeesh.

Some of the American exchange students with Cristo Redentor in the background

The view of Rio from Cristo Redentor. Pão de Açúcar is that funny-looking rock up there to the left.

Ah! I already feel like I'm going into too much detail. Seriously, it was a very long trip and I must be brief about each city.

So the next stop was Porto Seguro. Nice hotel (lots of grass and hammocks!) right outside the giant party city. We went to a night club one night, and danced like crazy to an Axé band, very popular Brazilian music, right on the beach! A great night. Next stop was Itacaré. A small town with some really beautiful wilderness and beaches. The town is pretty much one long main street with lots of little wooden buildings selling gifts. Very tourism-driven, but there weren't any old couples walking around with sunscreen on their noses and fanny-packs around their wastes, so it hadn't lost it's- what's the term?- rustic charm. I also went river rafting for the first time! Really fun, and it got super exciting when our boat had an unexpected (and actually rather violent) capsize in some rough water. Everyone was fine and we ended up having to jump off a small cliff back into the water in order to get back to the rest of the group because there was no way to climb down the steep rocks back to our boat. So pretty much: AWESOME.

Abandon ship! Actually, we had no choice...

A demonstration of Capoeira, a combat-style form of dance that originated in Bahia centuries ago.


Trancoso beach near Itacaré


A Bahiana serving Acarajé. It's sort of complicated to make, but it's pretty much a black-eyed-pea paste fried in palm oil and stuffed with spicy pastes made of peanuts, shrimp, peppers, and more palm oil. Pretty much the best food ever. Very typical of the state of Bahía.

Next we headed for Salvador, the heart of Bahia! It's the center of the Northeast and is truly a breathtaking city. A really busy place with lots of really old roads, churches, and other historic buildings. Really tiring, but worth spending the whole day poking around. One night we saw a folkloric show with all kinds of Afro-Brazilian dances and music. Incredible! I wish I could have taken photos. Sure, on this trip I was a tourist. But the fact is that, this year, I live in Brazil. And this show was one of the many steps that brought me to really feeling like I understand the culture of the country. I'll always be an American, but I love feeling like a Brazilian.


Here's a very small and very unsatisfying picture of a group of friends and me in Salvador. I had forgotten to charge my camera that day... From left to right are Sylvia, Georgina, Eddie, Arely, me, and Prila. All are Mexican except for the obvious Taiwanese Eddie and the tall gringo there.

From Salvador, we headed farther north to Recife, named after the huge amount of reef dominating it's coast. We took a day trip to Porto de Galinhas where I saw the clearest blue saltwater I'd ever seen in my life. We took small sailboats out to the reefs and did some snorkeling. The fish ate right out of our hands and the reef was really beautiful. From Recife, we went to Fortaleza, a more modern metropolis of the Northeast. We hit the beach one day and several of us rode horses for a while and then got really relaxing massages. Another first for me. She did go alarmingly high up my leg, but hey- this is Brazil.


A photo of a good portion of the group in Fortaleza

Next stop: Jericoacoara! This is a really small city that seriously reminded me of Tatooine. Yes, lots and lots of sand. The whole city was built on the beach at the base of towering dunes. We had time to get to know the town and the locals, but the most memorable part of Jericoacoara were those dunes. One day we all rented sand boards and rode the dunes down into natural salt water pools waiting at the bottom. I never got that great at sand boarding, but I was able to stay standing for a few runs! The next day we all took dune buggies out to a fresh water lagoon where we spent a lazy afternoon (that rhyme was 90% unintentional and 100% rad).

The group ready to head for the dunes! From L to R: Brenda (Mexico), Sean (Japan. Yes, I said Japan), Hendrick (Germany), Me (United States of WHATEVER!), Prila (Mexico), and Luís (Mexico).

Hell yeah!! I've been told it's a lot like snow boarding, but harder to steer and stay standing...

And my all time favorite... just plain ol' dune jumping!

From there, we headed back south to Natal, a city named after the date it was established- Christmas 1599 (Natal means Christmas in Portuguese, in case you didn't figure that out). We spent just one day there, which wasn't nearly enough to get to know the whole city, but served as a sufficient amount of time to visit a 400-year-old fortress and spent the rest of the day bumming around on the beach before heading back to our hotel to play around even more in the swimming pool. Next we headed away from the Brazilian beaches and into the interior. Lençóis was our next fantastic destination. We stayed in a a hotel that resembled Hobbitton with it's many small green hills between each of the outdoor apartments. The spiral staircases up to the higher rooms added a strange fairy-ish touch to things, and there were enormous toads and insects in just about every place you could look (except under the covers, thank goodness). The small town was surrounded by protected wilderness and we spent two days discovering underground caverns, natural waterslides, and we even stopped by a river with some strange type of red clay we used to paint our bodies! This may have been my favorite city on the trip. The environment was not at all similar to the Anacortes Community Forest Lands, but it was really great to be tromping around in nature again.

Dangling over the wall of the fortress! Buttocks from L to R: Amy's (Canada), Brittnie's (Canada), Dora's (Taiwan), and mine.


Natural waterslide! It was actually a very smooth ride. Wedgy factor: minimal.

Good times atop Lençóis
Brittnie: "Kevin, can I get on your back and take a picture?"
Kevin: "Sure Britt, climb on!"
Brittnie: "Kevin! Dontbackupdontbackupdontbackup! Colin, get away from me you...!"
She was seriously terrified.

Lot's of people on a hike in Lençóis! All either Mexican, American, or German. It's a guessing game! (I'm too lazy to name them all).

After Lençóis, we headed to the nation's capitol, Brasília. For those of you who don't know, Brasília was constructed out of nothing about 50 years ago. It's Brazil's third capitol (after Salvador and Rio de Janeiro) and the city's layout is made to resemble an airplane. Cool huh!? I think so.... Well, it's an extremely impressive city with all kinds of cutting-edge architecture by Brazil's very own Oscar Niemeyer. We had the chance to tour the National Congress, the Metropolitan Cathedral (the building that looks like a spaceship), and the Temple of Good Will, among many other things. A very memorable end to our tour of Brazil.

Anne (Germany) and me standing in front of the Metropolitan Cathedral. It is seriously beautiful on the inside. You must see it for yourself!

It was sad to return back to our normal lives. School had started again and so we all had to go to class within a couple days of being back. But I was greeted with some happy news: I wouldn't have to change host families! Hooray, hooray, I can keep playing cards with my grandma and irritating Sandra with my bad cooking. We were all pretty happy with the arrangement.

And I guess I didn't keep too well with the brevity. Oh well. Was it at least witty? (That went to all you Shakespeare and/or Brian Backman fans out there!) Don't forget to check out the trip's blog here! Take a special look at Itacaré. That one was written entirely by yours truly :)

Chapter 5: My Birthday!

I deliberately left out an important event that took place while we were in Itacaré. January 18th! Kevin day! I really wasn't expecting anything besides a few Happy Birthdays from my friends (I was just hoping not to have an egg cracked on my head! That's what happens on a person's birthday in Brazil), so I was really surprised when we got back to the hotel after dinner and they had a cake and balloons all ready! My friends sang happy birthday to me in half a dozen languages (so. awesome. seriously.) and then I cut the cake from the bottom up, as is tradition, in order to send my birthday wishes up to the sky. The first piece of cake was supposed to go to the most important person in the room to me, so I gave it to Dora because she was one of my first friends here in Brazil and we spend a lot of valuable time together.

The short party was winding down when Brittnie asked if she could take a short walk with me. She needed to talk about a recent boy-related breakthrough that she was super excited about. We walked down the dirt road and back, just talking about the news, and after a short ten minutes later, we were back in front of the hotel, surrounded by trees and bushes. Brittnie and I got quiet- we had run out of things to say- when an egg flew over my head and hit the ground behind me. I knew what was happening, so I ran as fast as I could in the other direction. I thought it was just a couple of people, but before I knew it, eggs were flying at me from every direction! I outran them, but they were still throwing eggs at my back. Eventually, I accepted the inevitable and stopped for them all to catch up. Egg after egg came crashing over my head and in five minutes, the stragglers were still walking up, lobbing their own eggs at me. I have never been so covered in anything in all my life. It smelled awful, but isn't egg supposed to be good for the skin or hair or something? I dunno. I got cleaned off under the hose and called it a night, thankful to have close enough friends that they felt comfortable enough to shower me in egg. Ugh. :)
Happy Birthday to me! (and Stephen and Jen!)


The batallion


Cold!

Stephen, this is written directly to you. It was my first birthday without you, and it I must say it went pretty well. But I missed you terribly and I hope we'll at least be a little closer in distance next year. It just didn't feel right without you. I miss you and love you a ton!

Chapter 6: Carnaval!

As most of you know (I think?), Carnaval took place from last Saturday until Tuesday. But the parties really started on Friday. School was an absolute zoo! During both 20 minute breaks, we just threw huge dance parties in the middle of the (big square area in the middle of the school? somebody give me a word here!). There was Brazilian music blaring, foam everywhere, water spraying from the ceiling, confetti all over the place, and everyone had some kind of mask or bright necklace to wear. Classes seemed so pointless that day. Later that night, I went with my friend Isa's family to Sambódromo, the main event in São Paulo. The best Carnaval parades are in Rio de Janeiro, but SP definitely takes second place. There were 7 samba schools, each with their own presentation of one hour and five minutes. I'm pretty sure it was the most spectacular sight I've ever laid eyes on. And it lasted until 7 in the morning! We left a little early, so we got home at 6, but we saw the best schools of the night before we left. The next day I slept until 5 in the afternoon, and then went to a party with some of my friends. The next few days were more or less like that. Sleep. party. sleep. party. I love Carnaval! We didn't have school until Thursday, so I had some time to recover.

Each samba school had about 4,000 students in the parade! All dressed in huge extravagant costumes and masks. Awesome!

Vila Maria's opening float



My favorite float! From the Peruche Samba School.

Isa and me way up on the high risers. Great seats!

Chapter 7: Whatever else comes to mind while I'm writing!

Well, there isn't a whole lot I have to say. I guess you're to be congratulated for making it this far! Leave me a comment if you did. I don't really expect anyone to really read all this until the end, sooo... good job!

Oh! Yes, I almost forgot. I picked a return date and my ticket is officially set. Ah! Emotion of all kinds! Anyway, the date will be Tuesday June 16th at 4:16 in the afternoon. Stephen and Clara are going to pick me up, we're going to spend some time at my dad's house, and then we'll head north for Anacortes! I can't wait to see everyone! Yay yay yayyayyay.

Oh, and yes I applied to USC, but I'm not in yet. We'll find that out in April I believe. If I do get in, I'll have to choose between Vassar and USC. For some reason, there were a lot of people thinking I had already gotten into USC, probably because I said something confusing to someone. So let this clear the record! And I hope I get in. *Knock on wood*

Alright everyone, thanks again for the support you've given me this year. It is so appreciated! I'm sorry I haven't had the time to respond to every e-mail, but I appreciate them more than you can know! Now that the trip and Carnaval are both behind me, I should have a little more time for correspondence. I'm sorry for the dormant phase! I love you guys.

Abraços

Kevin


sábado, 20 de dezembro de 2008

Happy Holidays and Scary Birthdays

The following signs have prompted me to buckle down and write this blog entry:

1. Maddy wrote in her blog, so in order to keep up our deal, I must now do the same. And click on that link! Her blog is so great, especially this week. There's a lovely picture of a cute little piglet! Miss you Maddy =)

2. I was going to write this morning, but I decided to put it off (as usual) and go swimming instead. However, the pool was totally empty except for a man wielding a blowtorch. Apparently they were cleaning? I'm not sure how that works.... Anyway, I had to come home.

3. It's been over three weeks!

So here we go.

The weather is heating up down here and Christmas is on it's way. It felt sort of weird skipping Thanksgiving, but a good long webcam chat with my family back home was all I needed. As my host mom pointed out however, I did have turkey hot dogs for lunch that day (she doesn't eat red meat), so it was pretty much Thanksgiving here, too. Hmmm, not quite, Mom. But thanks for trying! I need at least one pecan pie and my Aunt Debbie's cranberry chutney before I can call it a Thanksgiving dinner.

Ok, so remember that party I went to where my history teacher performed with his band of fellow faculty? And remember how I had to leave early? Well, this paragraph is about why. The next day my cousin's Rotary Club was sponsoring a trip for about ten exchange students to go visit and tour Natura Cosméticos, a Brazilian cosmetics company that sells products all over Central and South America and France. It was a really fun trip! I wasn't all that interested in the cosmetics to tell the truth, but it was interesting to see how a major Brazilian corporation works. They put a lot of effort into maintaining their carbon-neutral policy and are extremely environmentally conscious. There are a lot of American companies that could learn a thing or two from Brazil! Anyway, it was a full day with lots of interesting info and some great time with my exchange student friends.

Hanging out with the exchange students is always a great mental exercise. Nearly all the Mexican students are already fluent in Portuguese, and about half of them speak English fluently as well. There's an Ecuadorean and an Australian student who have been here for nearly a year already, and they of course speak Portuguese very well. The Asian exchange students are having a really difficult time with the language and are getting by mostly by use of their English. The European and North American students are using a lot of English as well, but are learning to use Portuguese most of the time. Anyway, it's hard to remember who speaks what, because not everyone speaks English and not everyone speaks Portuguese either. I finally feel confident enough in my Portuguese to declare myself fluent (which is a major breakthrough!) so it's not difficult for me to speak either language, but it's just challenging to know when I have to switch my brain over. Then there's Danish, Chinese, and Spanish conversations going on all around me too. Such a language fest! So exhilarating! This is one of my favorite parts of being an exchange student: the huge confusion of languages. It makes me so excited to get to college and start studying more and more of them.

A couple weeks ago we surprised my friend Dora for her 19th birthday party. Her host parents invited some friends of hers from her school and neighborhood and I managed to get a few exchange students together to help blow up a bunch of balloons and get the party going before she arrived. I knew that Brazilians love parties and conversation and most things loud and disruptive, but I couldn't help but be a little scared for my life when Dora walked in the door and people starting shouting "Surpresa!!! Parabéns!!" at the top of their lungs amid flickering lights, flying confetti, bursting balloons, and-- to top it all off-- an air horn. Things carried on this way for at least 90 seconds. It may not sound like a long time, but you try it. See how you feel afterward. Seriously, I thought one good burst on the air horn would do the job, but apparently it didn't. The constant honking along with Dora's dad popping every single one of the balloons in the house made me feel like I was in the middle of a shootout in Time's Square. But the rest of the party was really enjoyable. I'm going to be living with Dora's host family later this year, so it was cool to see what their apartment was like. It's pretty spacious with a great view of downtown Santo André. Takehara and Elza, both of whom I already know pretty well, are really warm and smile a lot (like the majority of people I've met down here). Dora's host grandma made a beautiful cake that we cut about 2 hours after Dora got here. In Brazil, it's tradition for the aniversariante (birthday girl or boy) to give the first piece of cake to the person in the room that's most important to him or her. Dora circled the room nervously a couple of times before giving the first plate of cake to Takehara, greeted of course with more confetti and cheering. Thankfully, all the balloons had already been popped and the air horn had expired.

The following day (Sunday), Rotary had organized a get-together for all the exchange students in Guarujá, an island about the size of Anacortes off the Southeast coast of São Paulo State. We spent the day at a Rotarian's house on Guaiúba Beach, playing in the ocean, lying in the sand, enjoying the churrasco, and exchanging gifts with our secret pals. It was the first time in what felt like forever that I got to spend time with all the exchange students together! It was a great time with some really relieving discussion-- it was good to find out that I wasn't the only one missing my family during the holidays! I'm hoping to go to Santos for New Year's to spend some time with my exchange student friends there.

Let's see, what else has been going on around here? Oh yes, last weekend Bryan, another American exchange student from Arizona who's living in a neighboring city, spent the weekend at my house in Santo André. It's so fun hanging out with Bryan and talking about all the funny things we notice about Brazil. Most things I forget are strange until I'm hanging with an American and we compare it to our own culture. That didn't make sense, so I'm going to come up with an example. Grocery shopping. You know how everything seems to cost a certain amount of dollars and 99¢ in the US? Well, same thing here, except the currency is the Real (R$). And when something costs R$4,99 and you give them a bill of R$5, they don't give you your penny in change. Same thing goes the other way around. Something may cost R$20,03, but you give them R$20 and it's all good. I've gotten used to little details like that, but when I'm with Brian, we always think of the typical American reaction to things. What do you think John Doe would do if he didn't get his 2¢ back at the supermarket? Probably either complain at the service counter or pull out his shotgun and give a speech about liberty and personal rights. Things are a little more chill here in Brazil.

Anyway, on Friday night we went to Dora's non-surprise birthday party (Dora told us that in Taiwan it's bad luck to celebrate your 19th birthday, which combined with the Brazilian superstition that it's bad luck to celebrate a birthday before their literal birthday, called for an extra celebration). We all arrived at Petiscaria, a small restaurant and bar, at about 10:00 in the evening and didn't end up going home until 4:00 AM. Great fun! The next day, Sandra took Brian and I to see the Avenida Paulista with all it's Christmas lights in downtown São Paulo. Traffic was horrible, but the decorations were awesome! It helped me get into the Christmas spirit a little more, which has been hard to do in the 85º weather. The next day, the whole extended family surprised Sandra's aunt for her 81st birthday. Brian felt pretty out of place during the whole rowdy affair, but at least he had Dora for company-- we invited her to help her adjust to the family because she'll be moving into my place in February (I'll be moving into my friend Luis's family, and he'll be moving into Dora's. We'll all rotate again in April). She was definitely overwhelmed, but in a very smiley and cheerful way. Her Portuguese is coming along at a slower pace, so it's hard for her to keep up with all my talkative aunts and uncles. But she'll love them in no time. I already do! They keep asking me if I really have to move, and giving me suggestions on how to get out of it. I love them all so much that I'm considering faking a psychotic break so that Sandra can insist I stay with them since she's a psychologist. We'll see how it all plays out...

So all in all, I really feel settled in here. I wake up at night muttering to myself in Portuguese and it doesn't take a minute for me to remember where I am. I can answer the phone without worrying about not understanding whoever's on the other end. The heat is even becoming more and more tolerable. I don't know exactly what changes are happening in me, but I'm definitely not the same person I was when I left the United States. I keep trying to imagine myself walking my dog on the rocky beaches of Puget Sound, eating blueberry fritters at The Donut House with my friends at 3:00 AM, or just watching a movie with my mom while we slurp our favorite dessert of vanilla ice cream, peanut butter, and chocolate sauce, but it all just seems so foreign now. I'm starting to understand what Gary and Melissa told us about feeling culture shock when we get home. Being home will be such a great thing, but it will be a whole new adventure. Plus I can't wait to see all my friends and family! Keep sending me news of fun holiday get-togethers.

I love you guys.

Kevin

My family having a nice Thanksgiving chat with me via Skype. Katie in front, my cousin Christine sitting in the chair, Aunt Debbie and Uncle Steve behind them, and my grandparents making their way in to see what all the fuss is about.

The view of Santo André from Takehara's apartment.

Surprise! Happy Birthday Dora! (Is she cowering?)

Our friends at Dora's party. Thumbs-up! Hahaha...

Guaiúba Beach on Guarujá

Friends! Dora (Taiwan), Arely (Mexico), Anne (Germany), and Brittney (Canada)

Some rainbowy tower on the Avenida Paulista. Cool, huh?

The Banco do Brasil building

The Banco Itaú building

Happy Birthday Tia Maria! We didn't have a "1" candle...

Baby Henry!!! He doesn't always look that scared, I promise.

quarta-feira, 26 de novembro de 2008

A Rant and a Sunday Night Rave

Well, that didn't last long, did it? I said I was going to be updating every Sunday and here I am on Wednesday night, writing the blog entry that should have been written three days ago. No excuses, just laziness. But here I am, ready to describe a few details of my ever-changing life down here. Let's get started.

There are countless English words that have seeped into the Portuguese language. There are many words like sanduíche, picape (pickup), site, internet, email, business, marketing, and flyer, not to mention countless mispronounced titles, names, places, and greetings. But of the innumerable English words that we use here in Brazil, none stands out as glaringly as the word shopping. I partly say this because it is so clearly NOT a words of latin descent, and partly because it is used outside of its original English context. Here the word means "mall". It means "the mall". As in "I'm going to the mall," in normal English. But in Brazilian Portuguese, we say "I'm going to the shopping." All the native English speakers I know here find this as amusing as it is confusing. I find it a little irritating because it's a constant reminder that English is and always will be inescapable. Here I am, minding my own beeswax, trying to learn an exotic new romance language when BAM! Here comes the ol' English-mobile, throwing out linguistic treats for all the little girls and boys. Seriously, half the television shows are in English with Portuguese subtitles, nearly all the names of the stores inside the shopping are in English (Surf Shop, Authentic Feet, China in Box), over 80% of the movies in the cinemas are imported from the US, AND everyone is dying for an excuse to practice their English on a real live natural born speaker. Gah! Leave me alone, you wretched, invasive language of mine! I'm seeing someone else for a while! Her name is Portuguese and she's way more interesting than YOU ever were! I feel like Wayne Campbell sitting in that diner while his ex-girlfriend, Stacy, keeps making eyes at him and eventually comes over and gives him an entirely useless gun rack for their would-be anniversary. Just leave me alone you intrusive wench!

Alright, where was I going with that? Oh right. Shopping. So I went to the Shopping ABC last Wednesday with a few of my exchange student friends, since there isn't really a good place to just hang out around here. A couple of my Brazilian friends came too because they heard there were going to be a few Mexican girls there. Well, they weren't disappointed. We didn't know what to do for a while, but in the end, the girls just went around shopping for bikinis and shoes while the guys sat around on the couches that they have in the hallways. It all seemed a little pointless, but it was really fun. The whole thing was a serious mental workout with all the switching from English to Portuguese. Plus, I'm always thankful for something to do in the afternoon. Brazilians don't really get the concept of hanging out-- just going somewhere to do nothing in particular with some good friends-- so it's hard to know what to suggest when you want to hang out with your friends.

That night I went home and got really sick. It only lasted for about twelve hours, but I was seriously shaking and cold when I went to bed, and then woke up burning hot with a terrible headache and aching all over my body. I just lay there for the whole night, sleeping 20 minutes at a time. When I finally managed to drag myself out of bed to ask my mom for some good pain medicine, she insisted I was feeling so bad because I had eaten next to nothing the day before. I was irritated because all I wanted was a pill and some mass sympathy. Plus, as confirmed by my American mom, you can't get sick like that from just skipping a meal. But Sandra is Brazilian and knows everything, so let it be. Afterall, she takes good care of me, even if she's a little too pragmatic at times.

By Friday, I was feeling well enough to go to my last day of school. It was really chill, with minimal lectures and a heightened amount of conversation. My math teacher walked the classroom through their weekend leading up to their test on Sunday and I got nervous even though I wasn't even going to be taking the test! He made it a big dramatic event that included special diets, an altered sleep schedule, and literally smacking the test on Sunday to show it who's boss. In the end, we all got in a circle, held hands, and he led us in a shouted prayer about our futures. It was seriously hilarious.

I skipped my last class with all my friends to play around on the athletic courts. It was my class, 3C2, against our friendly rival 3C5. First we all played capture the flag, which was full of creative tricks. At one point, about five of our guys crowded around the flag and then ran off in separate directions. Most of the guys were caught, but none of them had the flag. Then Artur crossed over to our side and pulled the flag out of his shirt, gaining another point for our team. Apparently, anything goes in Brazil. Unfortunately, the next time Artur tried to get creative, he ended up falling about ten feet onto his back. He grabbed the flag, and then scaled the wall to a metal bar that ran parallel to the ground. After shimmeying for a few seconds toward our side of the court, the bar just broke and he came tumbling down with it. The game stopped and just about all of us were crying with laughter. That's when we decided to switch to dodgeball. Well, we should have stuck with capture the flag because 3C5 finally got the best of us, winning 2 out of the 3 games. But it was still some of the most fun an intense dodgeball I've ever played.

That evening was a fun night of barhopping with some of my best friends. We started at a birthday party, and then worked out way down the main social strip of Santo André. The last bar was the funnest, with endless toasts to my nationality, my president-elect Barack Obama, and my pullover. I had chosen this night to make my self-conscious debut of my awesome argyle sweater vest, and it was noticed by all my friends. No one here wears sweater vests, so I stuck out a little more than usual. Luckily, they all just thought it was cool and American, so all the comments were impressed. Phew. We got home at about 2 AM and I had a lazy Saturday while all my friends were studying for the test of their lives that would be on Sunday.

After the test on Sunday, I went to a party put on by my school for all the seniors that were finally done with the Fuvest. It was at a pretty cool club in neighboring São Bernardo. There were a ton of people from all over the city, and the dancing got really fun and rowdy. Most of the music was played by the DJ, but the main headliner of the night was a band of teachers from Colégio Singular. There were five of them. Three of them I didn't know, but my math teacher, Marco Polo, would be playing drums, and my exceedingly dull and adored history teacher, João, would be on vocals and lead guitar. I thought it would be interesting, but apparently my expectations were low, because it ended up being the best part of the night! They played all kinds of music, and everyone was so excited to see them perform. And they were actually really good, too! João freaking ripped it up on the guitar and his voice didn't resemble his normal drone at all. I got some fun photos, but I had to leave early. I was getting up really early the next day to take a day trip with some other exchange students. But more on that next week. I'm supposed to be posting these on Sundays remember?

Anyway, here are a few photos for you to enjoy. Please excuse any terrible typos or spelling errors for now. It's past midnight and I don't feel like going through and editing my work right now. Maybe I'll get around to it tomorrow. In any case, Happy Thanksgiving! Eat some delicious turkey and pie for me.

Love you all.

Kevin

One of the numerous Christmas displays at Shopping ABC. It's been up since October!
My friend Lucas juggling a soccer ball during the break at school.
My friends Camila, Renata, Eliza, and Flávia from school
Capture the flag! (Pegue bandeira)
Some guys from 3C2 with our beloved João. The chalk represents the cigarette that he always has in hand when he's not in the classroom. I was actually a little cold that day. Weird...
João playing his guitar and wailin' his sweet voice on Sunday night. This was awesome.
And the crowd goes wild!
Me, Everton, two girls I don't know very well, and Bia on the right. Don't mind the weird look on my face.

domingo, 16 de novembro de 2008

Turtles are seriously cute

Milk! Oh, how I miss thee. I never realized just how much of a milk person I was until I came to Brazil. Of course milk exists down here, but it's rather nauseating. Are all of you familiar with the abbreviation "UHT"? If not, kindly follow this link. It will tell you all you need to know about the only type of milk available in Brazil. There's just something terribly unnatural about a carton of milk that can sit at room temperature for months and never spoil. I have found it mildly palatable only when mixed with Toddy, a powdered chocolate nutrients supplement, pretty similar to Instant Breakfast. In the end however, I can think of only one word to describe UHT milk: Bleh.

Other than my liquid adversary, things are still treating me pretty well down here. I've had a short week of school because of all the testing. This week we only had four classes a day instead of the usual six because the seniors use the last couple hours to take their finals. The other four classes aren't usually more than role call and then sitting around studying or chatting. Wednesday was the English final, which ended up being pretty fun for me. Everyone was asking me about vocabulary and grammar all day. It's strange when I can't always answer their questions! There's a big difference between studying a language and just speaking it naturally. But I like to think I was of some help to some of my friends, anyway. The English final was the only test I actually took, and I think it went pretty well. It seems like it would be easy, but all the questions are in Portuguese and many of the responses have to be as well. So it ended up being a test of both my English grammar skills and my Portuguese proficiency. I wouldn't be surprised if some other students did way better than I did! I couldn't think of the Portuguese word for "stage" for the life of me, and I had absolutely no idea what "indirect discourse" was. Oh well. At least my diploma doesn't depend on it.

On Friday was the Prova Geral which lasted the whole day, so I didn't even go to school. But I was invited to a churrasco afterward to celebrate the end of all the tests. I got to skip the test but was still invited to the party? I love being an exchange student! It was a pretty sweet, too. My friend Luiz Felipe hosted it at his apartment building and a lot of my good friends from school were there. We played futsal for a while, and I even scored a few goals! It was a pretty easy-going game, so everyone scored a few times, but still. I'm just glad I didn't make a fool of myself! The rest of the time was just spent hanging out, eating meat skewers and snack food, and taking turns playing DJ. My favorite part was when Everton switched it to Colt 45 by Afroman. I felt like I was back in Anacortes!

My mom picked me up to go visit Thais, Ricardo, and Henry later that afternoon. Henry was sleeping the whole time, but that didn't stop everyone from leaning over him and exclaiming over his resemblance to his parents, his cute little hands, and the amount of hair he already has. Thais's mom, Íris, showed me around their apartment and introduced me to all their aquariums and little animals. When she took me out on the deck to meet their turtle, she got a little panicked because we couldn't find it right away. Eventually we discovered it cramped at the bottom of a foot-deep drain, just chillin' there like turtles do. I reached my arm down there and lifted it out of it's damp and depressing prison, and I was relieved to see that it was definitely still alive. As soon as I set it down it went over and started gnawing on some of the vegetation they grow out there. We covered the drain and then went inside and tried to figure out with everyone how long it must have been down there. We never came to a conclusion, but it couldn't have been that long. After all, it wasn't dead, right?

Oh! I've been forgetting to tell you guys that I finished my first Portuguese book a few weeks ago: Harry Potter e a Ordem da Fênix. I've read the fifth Harry Potter book a couple of times in English, so that made it quite a bit easier to understand in Portuguese. It was a long read, but was immensely satisfying when I finally finished! Then I read O Alquimista by Brazil's very own Paulo Coelho. It's a really cool story about a Spanish shephard who heads to the African continent to realize his destiny and fulfill his personal legend. It's all very spiritual and gives you a lot to think about. His works have been translated into dozens of languages and I can't tell you how cool it felt to be reading his literature in it's original text. Some of you may have read the English version, The Alchemist. If you haven't, you may want to consider it. It's a short read and I seriously loved it.

On Wednesday (am I a little out of order here?) I went to the mall to hang out with a couple of my exchange student friends- Brittnie from Canada and Bryan from the good ol' US of A. We decided to watch the new 007 movie- it came out a week earlier here than in the United States- and we had some time to kill before it started, so we wandered around looking at fish, getting kicked out of furniture stores for just sitting on the couches and talking, and oggling at the early Christmas decorations. I forgot to mention that, too. Christmas decorations have been up for at least three weeks now. I know! But without Halloween or Thanksgiving, Brazil is free to fast forward to twinkling lights, candy canes, fake snow, and dancing Santa Clauses. There are already giant pine trees in all the shopping malls, and Christmas carols can be heard just about anywhere. I guess it wouldn't be so weird to me if it weren't 80º out! But Brazilians are serious about their pre-fabricated American traditions. They get really into bundling up and celebrating the winter holidays in the swealtering heat of summer. Everyone tells me this is a direct import of American culture. I still don't really get it. Anyway, the movie was pretty cool. I really like Daniel Craig as the face of bond these days, even if this movie was a little lacking in both the witty dialogue and nifty gadgits departments.

Alrighty, this is the part where I post some pictures and say goodbye, but I don't really have any pitures relevant to this week's events. However, my camera functional at long last, thanks to the lithium battery charger my mom sent from home. Thanks mommy! Hopefully I'll be able to post some pictures of my friends from school. Which reminds me... I decided I'm going to continue school until everyone else is done. They told us that the exchange students don't have to come anymore. Now that finals are over, it's just review for all the students to stay sharp until the end their college entrance tests. But I'd rather be at school than be hanging out at home with nothing to do while my friends are in class. So I'll be at school for a few more weeks.

Also, I'm updating weekly now. Expect a new post every Sunday. This way I'll be obligated to write something and won't be able to put it off and put it off like I've been doing lately. So if you don't hear from me in time, send me angry e-mails! Or nice ones. Just get on my case if I don't keep up.

I'm going now. For real. I love you guys!

Até mais

domingo, 9 de novembro de 2008

Life, death, and lobsters (don't worry about the "death" part)


Hey everyone. Guess what! My cousin had a baby! He arrived right on time on Thursday while I was at school, and I went to see him at the hospital on Friday. The parents are Thais and Ricardo, and his name is Henry. Thais is my mom's cousin's daughter, so to me she's some kind of complicated cousin. But it doesn't matter exactly how we're related; the fact that we are related is good enough. Down here, family is family, and no one really takes the time to explain to me how it all works. The important thing is: Yay! New baby. Everyone is so happy and it feels great to be treated like a real part of the family. At first I was afraid I might feel intrusive and awkward, but I seem to be the only one thinking about that. Everyone is so loving and they always ask me if I really do have to change families after Christmas. The sad answer is "Yes! But I'll live nearby and we'll still see each other a lot!"

Another cause for celebration... our 44th President is going to be Barack Obama! I already feel so much more pride for my country. Most Brazilians are really happy with the election results as well. In the end, my absentee ballot never arrived. But I was able to print off an overseas ballot from the internet and send it in time to be counted. It can't tell you how great it feels to have voted in this historical election. I already had my bases covered if Sen. Obama lost though- Sandra said I would be welcome to live at her house instead of returning home. Fortunately however, I will be flying back to Seattle at the end of my exchange. Barack and Roll baby!

So last weekend was a traditional American Holiday. Halloween isn't officially celebrated in Brazil, but most English language schools have events commemorating the American tradition. And since nearly everyone studies English outside of the regular school day, everyone knows what it is. The decorations were scarce and a little strange (my school hung up gigantic ripped black banners in the main quad. Weird...), but people got the idea. Since Brazilians never pass up a chance to party, we had another celebration at my friend Nilton's apartment building. It wasn't a costume party, but everyone brought something pertaining to O Dia das Bruxas. There were lots of wigs, hats, and capes. I had been feeling a little homesick the day before, so I had gone out with my mom in search of a pumpkin to carve. Neither of us knew if pumpkins were even in season, but after a few fruitless visits to various supermarkets, we were a little discouraged. Eventually, we found a little bin with about 6 flat little Japanese pumpkins. I had never thought about different species of pumpkins, but apparent there are a lot in Brazil. But on that day, we had only one choice. So I took one home, gutted it, and carved a nice little Jack-o-lantern. I named him Toguchi, after one of my friends here who is half Japanese. At the party, everyone was really impressed, which I found surprising. Most of them had never seen a real Jack-o-lantern before and weren't sure if people actually made them. Unfortunately, the real Toguchi never showed up, so we never got to compare their faces side by side. In any case, the pumpkin was a short-lived novelty. After a couple hours of cheerful and innocent candle-flickering, my orange friend got chucked from the top of a fifty foot stair case. There was pumpkin everywhere. The humor of the situation helped me get over it pretty quickly, but the image of half his smiling face floating in the swimming pool still haunts me at times.

Yesterday (Saturday) I went to Santos again to hang out with all the Rotary exchange students and learn how to surf! The weather forecast was rather bleak all weak (rhyme!), but we lucked out and had a beautiful day of sun. We all arrived at the beach at about 9:30 in the morning and ate some breakfast. Everyone had brought some food characteristic of their own country, so we had a really strange and delicious feast. I had a hard time thinking of some particularly American breakfast items, but in the end I made a batch of Casey's wonderful banana bread. It turned out well, and it looked strange enough next to the qeusadillas and egg rolls that it even seemed a little exotic. After watching some Hawaiian dancers perform a short show for us, we ran into the water and just played in the waves for about an hour. The Mexicans were all freezing, but most of us were pretty comfortable in the cool water. The surfing lessons were in two parts: a theory session on the beach, and then an hour in the water. Not all the exchange students are speaking Portuguese yet, so the surf instructor asked me to stand next to him and shout out the English as he explained some things in Portuguese. Seriously, this language nerd felt like he had died and gone to heaven. Live language interpretation? So cool! I don't care if it was only a couple minutes- I felt like I was at the UN. Sometimes I can't believe that I'm living my life in a completely different language. I still have a long way to go, but I've come a long way since my first day. Portuguese is the coolest thing ever man.

So I wasn't that great at surfing, but I did manage to stand on the board a few times before I toppled over. It was so so SO fun. I can't wait to travel to the Northeast and surf on some of the best beaches in the country. The sun was strong and I spent most of the day with my shirt off, so despite my feeble layer of sunscreen, my skin was definitely affected. The good news? Goodbye farmer's tan! The bad news? I now resemble a bipedal lobster. Owww! Well, at least I learned my lesson. Next time I'll be sure to apply the sunscreen more than just once.

Well, that's it for now. I've got to get to bed. It just passed midnight and I have school tomorrow. This is my last week of school, did I tell you guys? Everyone else has a couple more weeks for testing, but the exchange students are out on Thursday for the summer holidays. Hooray!

Abraços!

PS: Comments, people. Comments!!

Enjoy the pictures.

Baby Henry!

Moments before the makeover

Meet Toguchi.

The exchange students, some hula dancers, and a few random people

Sean and I practicing our moves on our sand surf boards. Apparently it took great concentration...